57 replies to this topic

[aaamusements]

Glad I was right about the microswitch falling out - it's the most common and most easily sorted fault with switches!

That battery is standard, mine is the direct replacement. It will just be those 3 pins soldered through the board, easy enough to remove.

It is indeed M1A, no manual specifically for the board but I have schematics somewhere? And a manual for the general tech.

That rheostat is the game volume.

[atait]

Glad I was right about the microswitch falling out - it's the most common and most easily sorted fault with switches!

That battery is standard, mine is the direct replacement. It will just be those 3 pins soldered through the board, easy enough to remove.

It is indeed M1A, no manual specifically for the board but I have schematics somewhere? And a manual for the general tech.

That rheostat is the game volume.

I'll get one ordered off of you just now. is the manual and schematics worth having.

Also do I need to take the board out to resolder ?

Thanks Ali

[aaamusements]

Yes, you will have to remove the board for desoldering and soldering.

I wont sell you a manual or schematics, but I can direct you to the downloads...

[atait]

Yes, you will have to remove the board for desoldering and soldering.

I wont sell you a manual or schematics, but I can direct you to the downloads...

That would be good - ty

[Guitar]

Without sounding too dramatic GET THE BATTERY OFF THE BOARD NOW!!!!!.

Its started to leak and those batteries can cause MASSIVE damage. Ok you have caught it just in the nick of time but seriously get it off the board. The machine will function without it, but it will reset the percentage every time you play and make an alarm at startup. Leave the alarm for 30 seconds and it goes away.

Ok it will be annoying for a few days but will save you a board in the long run.

Once you take the battery off you want to get some vinegar ad an old brush and neutralise the area where the battery was. These batteries vaporise and will continue to attack even after the battery is removed.

The battery acid is actually an alkali, hence the vinegar to neutralise it. Once you have rubbed it with vinegar, leave it for 10 - 15 minutes, then rinse with a little soapy water (fairy liquid, not soap) and then water.

Allow it to dry (MOST IMPORTANT!!!) overnight or use a hair dryer until you are positive it is dry. And then use it as normal.

I know washing it with vinegar sounds a bit drastic but I was told this method by someone far more knowledgable than me (System80 at the MPU Mecca).

This should prevent the board becomig any more damaged than it is.

If you're interested I have some photo's of what hapens if you don't catch the battery in time (9 times to be precise ).

[atait]

Without sounding too dramatic GET THE BATTERY OFF THE BOARD NOW!!!!!.

Its started to leak and those batteries can cause MASSIVE damage. Ok you have caught it just in the nick of time but seriously get it off the board. The machine will function without it, but it will reset the percentage every time you play and make an alarm at startup. Leave the alarm for 30 seconds and it goes away.

Ok it will be annoying for a few days but will save you a board in the long run.

Once you take the battery off you want to get some vinegar ad an old brush and neutralise the area where the battery was. These batteries vaporise and will continue to attack even after the battery is removed.

The battery acid is actually an alkali, hence the vinegar to neutralise it. Once you have rubbed it with vinegar, leave it for 10 - 15 minutes, then rinse with a little soapy water (fairy liquid, not soap) and then water.

Allow it to dry (MOST IMPORTANT!!!) overnight or use a hair dryer until you are positive it is dry. And then use it as normal.

I know washing it with vinegar sounds a bit drastic but I was told this method by someone far more knowledgable than me (System80 at the MPU Mecca).

This should prevent the board becomig any more damaged than it is.

If you're interested I have some photo's of what hapens if you don't catch the battery in time (9 times to be precise ).

Thank you for your help.

I have already ordered a new battery.

I would never have checked the battery without the advice on here so I shall endeavour to remove it today, if not today, tomorrow (im off to work soon). I presume when cleaning it with vinegar you would use a dilute version as previously stated ? Also I would just clean around the battery with say cotton pads and then do the same with the soapy water ?

Any tips on removing the main board, Can I just take it off in the metal housing - is there access at the back of it ?

Cheers

Ali

[Guitar]

Thank you for your help.

I have already ordered a new battery.

I would never have checked the battery without the advice on here so I shall endeavour to remove it today, if not today, tomorrow (im off to work soon). I presume when cleaning it with vinegar you would use a dilute version as previously stated ? Also I would just clean around the battery with say cotton pads and then do the same with the soapy water ?

Any tips on removing the main board, Can I just take it off in the metal housing - is there access at the back of it ?

Cheers

Ali

I just used straight vinegar on mine, bt I'm just not skilled enough to fix them. They are very fragile boards in that it only gives error messages if its working enough to give the messages out. And battery damage, especially when severe will easily bugger the board up enough to stop it booting. And then you have to really know your stuff to get them working again.

System80 leaves his in vinegar overnight, so straight vinegar will do no damage if left for 10 - 20 minutes.

You can do it with cotton buds if you wish, its only really important with major damage, which yours is certinly not (yet, get that battery off ).

But the idea is to neutralise any of the board where the battery acid or vapour has touched. The reason being that it will continue to attack the board even after the battery has been removed. Once neutralised th problem goes away.

As a further safeguard I keep the battery in the cashbox at the bottom of the machine and run a cale from it to the oard. That way if I forget to check it and it leaks, it leaks onto a small area of the cabinet that is hidden, and the system board (which are fraught with enough problems just by their design) is safe.

To remove the board...

1) Take off the plastic lid
2) **With the power off** remove all the connectors from the board, and the rom card.
3) There should be 6 (or 4 I cant remember) plastic clips at the edges of the board holding it in. Unclip them from the edge of the board and the oard should simply pull out.

Never, ever, attach or detach connectors with the machine powered on.

I don't think I've missed anything, but if you need any help just ask.

To download the manual and schematics, create an account here.. The MPU Mecca and its in the "resources" section.

Guitar

[aaamusements]

I couldn't find the manual on there the other day Guitar - I have a copy on my PC and tried to upload it again but it failed.

[Guitar]

I couldn't find the manual on there the other day Guitar - I have a copy on my PC and tried to upload it again but it failed.

I can't see it on there now either very odd. I will PM Mike later.

Here's the link to the schematics though. You will nee to create an account to get at them.
The MPU Mecca

[atait]

I just used straight vinegar on mine, bt I'm just not skilled enough to fix them. They are very fragile boards in that it only gives error messages if its working enough to give the messages out. And battery damage, especially when severe will easily bugger the board up enough to stop it booting. And then you have to really know your stuff to get them working again.

System80 leaves his in vinegar overnight, so straight vinegar will do no damage if left for 10 - 20 minutes.

You can do it with cotton buds if you wish, its only really important with major damage, which yours is certinly not (yet, get that battery off ).

But the idea is to neutralise any of the board where the battery acid or vapour has touched. The reason being that it will continue to attack the board even after the battery has been removed. Once neutralised th problem goes away.

As a further safeguard I keep the battery in the cashbox at the bottom of the machine and run a cale from it to the oard. That way if I forget to check it and it leaks, it leaks onto a small area of the cabinet that is hidden, and the system board (which are fraught with enough problems just by their design) is safe.

To remove the board...

1) Take off the plastic lid
2) **With the power off** remove all the connectors from the board, and the rom card.
3) There should be 6 (or 4 I cant remember) plastic clips at the edges of the board holding it in. Unclip them from the edge of the board and the oard should simply pull out.

Never, ever, attach or detach connectors with the machine powered on.

I don't think I've missed anything, but if you need any help just ask.

To download the manual and schematics, create an account here.. The MPU Mecca and its in the "resources" section.

Guitar

No plastic cover over mine - does it need one ?

Downloaded the schematics - means little to me TBH.

Thanks though.

Ali

[aaamusements]

The cover is optional, definitely non essential!

We will let you know if we can sort out the tech manual.

[atait]

Battery received this morning ty.

Already changed and in situ. Just aswell really as the old battery had def. started to corrode the board around it very very slightly.

Is it recommended that the machine be left on at first to charge the battery or is this unnecessary ?

Also, Still got a fussy coin mech so will def look at replacing that and seeing how I get on. Just think a week ago I never even owned a fruit machine, let alone looked inside one, now Ive got my own running quite sweetly and all thanks to you guys on this forum.

A BIG THANK YOU TO ALL.

Ali

[aaamusements]

Battery received this morning ty.

Already changed and in situ. Just aswell really as the old battery had def. started to corrode the board around it very very slightly.

Is it recommended that the machine be left on at first to charge the battery or is this unnecessary ?

Also, Still got a fussy coin mech so will def look at replacing that and seeing how I get on. Just think a week ago I never even owned a fruit machine, let alone looked inside one, now Ive got my own running quite sweetly and all thanks to you guys on this forum.

A BIG THANK YOU TO ALL.

Ali

Hehe it's a steep learning curve isn't it?

Best to let the battery charge for a few hours, or overnight. Nice one for getting it changed before it killed the board.

Clean the mech with Mr Sheen. (Other furniture polishes are available!)

[atait]

Hehe it's a steep learning curve isn't it?

Best to let the battery charge for a few hours, or overnight. Nice one for getting it changed before it killed the board.

Clean the mech with Mr Sheen. (Other furniture polishes are available!)

Thanks again - will try Mr Sheen on the coin mech today.

Ali

[ady]

Thanks again - will try Mr Sheen on the coin mech today.

Ali

Those Two were posted off Saturday mate....

Ady

[atait]

Those Two were posted off Saturday mate....

Ady

Cheers Ady - pm me you details and what I owe you mate.

Ali

[Alex Atkin UK]

I can't see it on there now either very odd. I will PM Mike later.

Here's the link to the schematics though. You will nee to create an account to get at them.
The MPU Mecca

Dang, I had the technical manual that came with my Donkey Kong but with it being broken so long I lost it. I was lucky though, the voltages out of the PSU seemed totally out of whack so I guessed at the fix.

Incidentally, do you know what the big difference is between the M1A and M1B? Is it just a slight redesign to improve reliability?

[aaamusements]

Incidentally, do you know what the big difference is between the M1A and M1B? Is it just a slight redesign to improve reliability?

Basically yes.

The 2 types of board are interchangeable.