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Keen New Member with first Fruit Machine "Noels House Party" With Issues


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#21 Guest_Ja20n_*

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:32 PM

without looking at im sure it has

#22 Guest_Ja20n_*

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:33 PM

Would it fit his machine?

#23 Bencrest

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 10:23 PM

without looking at im sure it has


You'll know if it has, pretty sure it's a HUGE orange block (at least, the one I have is orange) which sticks out the side of the coin validator, and has assorted plugs / wires sticking out.

Either way, as said elsewhere, a new (well, reconditioned / working / second hand) mech would be the best option.

#24 aaamusements

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 11:09 PM

You'll know if it has, pretty sure it's a HUGE orange block (at least, the one I have is orange) which sticks out the side of the coin validator, and has assorted plugs / wires sticking out.


That's the one!

@ JA20N: It should work in his machine but there will doubtless be coin routing issues to sort out...

#25 atait

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 07:00 AM

That's the one!

@ JA20N: It should work in his machine but there will doubtless be coin routing issues to sort out...



Cheers for your help, I think I will hold out for ME126 to avoid the re routing.

#26 stevedude2

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 10:00 AM

Before you change the coin mech, there is one thing I recommend you try. When you put coins in, they first run down a black Y-chute before reaching the coin mech. Have a look at this - some of them have a small PCB on them. If yours has, switch the machine off and unplug the Y-chute. Unclip the PCB and you should find two or three small sensors. Give them a clean with a cotton bud or cloth, put it all back together and try coins in the machine.

Those sensors can get dirty and make coin acceptance poor, and often get overlooked when diagnosing a fault. I only suggest this because the machine is accepting coins, but very badly, so it's not like the coin mech has completely blown or the fuse has gone.

You may find that the Y-chute has no PCB on it, just a couple of lamps on the end, in which case all the sensors are in the coin mech.

I'd certainly give that a try :)
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#27 Guitar

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 11:36 AM

Also check the battery on the mainboard for leakage. One of the boards I had with a leaky battery would be very fussy about accepting coins and the start button didn't work. The battery attacks the switch matrix and can also affect the coin mech circuitry too.

If the battery is blue or leaking then remove it asap. Replace it with a Green NiMH battery of the same rating.

These Maygay machines are a lot of fun but they are quite fragile for several reasons. The battery is aways check number 1 for me.

Welcome to the forums, Enjoy your stay.:)

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#28 Pook

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 04:00 PM

Isn't it nice to see a polite first post/introduction and the positive that people respond to that. :)

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#29 aaamusements

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 04:59 PM

Before you change the coin mech, there is one thing I recommend you try. When you put coins in, they first run down a black Y-chute before reaching the coin mech. Have a look at this - some of them have a small PCB on them. If yours has, switch the machine off and unplug the Y-chute. Unclip the PCB and you should find two or three small sensors. Give them a clean with a cotton bud or cloth, put it all back together and try coins in the machine.


Very good point.
Although machines generally only have these electronic double coin entry chutes when they accept, or have accepted, tokens.

And yes, welcome to the forum to the OP!
What a nice polite first post. :D

PS. You may have routing issues with a 126 anyway! Depends what it has come out of.

#30 atait

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 10:42 PM

Thank you all very much for all your replies, glad my first post was not typical of newbie standards. I do try to research stuff myself before asking for help, but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet.

Been working till now today so the added research will have to wait until tomorrow - stevedud2 - first thing I will try and do is look at the board there. Second thing will be the battery on the main board.

Thanks again everyone !!

#31 atait

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 08:55 AM

Before you change the coin mech, there is one thing I recommend you try. When you put coins in, they first run down a black Y-chute before reaching the coin mech. Have a look at this - some of them have a small PCB on them. If yours has, switch the machine off and unplug the Y-chute. Unclip the PCB and you should find two or three small sensors. Give them a clean with a cotton bud or cloth, put it all back together and try coins in the machine.

Those sensors can get dirty and make coin acceptance poor, and often get overlooked when diagnosing a fault. I only suggest this because the machine is accepting coins, but very badly, so it's not like the coin mech has completely blown or the fuse has gone.

You may find that the Y-chute has no PCB on it, just a couple of lamps on the end, in which case all the sensors are in the coin mech.

I'd certainly give that a try :)


Hi Steve, It was the board with the sensors and after cleaning I do think it is making a difference, but it is still choosy on the coins (except 10p). I tend to have more luck with the acceptance of coins if I let them just drop into the machine, rather than pushing it in ?,

Thanks again.

Ali

#32 atait

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 08:59 AM

Also check the battery on the mainboard for leakage. One of the boards I had with a leaky battery would be very fussy about accepting coins and the start button didn't work. The battery attacks the switch matrix and can also affect the coin mech circuitry too.

If the battery is blue or leaking then remove it asap. Replace it with a Green NiMH battery of the same rating.

These Maygay machines are a lot of fun but they are quite fragile for several reasons. The battery is aways check number 1 for me.

Welcome to the forums, Enjoy your stay.:)


Thank you - The Battery does appear to be leaking slightly. It is a 2.4V 100ma Varta. Can you suggest a supplier ? I see someone selling a 110ma on ebay at £6.50 delivered - would this do ?

There are 3 terminals on the battery, one which looks like it is soldered on to the actual battery and another two which are dedicated terminals.

This will obviously be my next port of call. Even if it doesn't work I see they recommend changing them every 4 years ?

Thanks again

Ali

#33 aaamusements

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 09:18 AM

Thank you - The Battery does appear to be leaking slightly. It is a 2.4V 100ma Varta. Can you suggest a supplier ? I see someone selling a 110ma on ebay at £6.50 delivered - would this do ?

There are 3 terminals on the battery, one which looks like it is soldered on to the actual battery and another two which are dedicated terminals.

This will obviously be my next port of call. Even if it doesn't work I see they recommend changing them every 4 years ?

Thanks again

Ali


You do need to get the battery changed asap if it is leaking - it can totally kill these boards...
The bloke selling them on Ebay is highly recommended by me! ;)

Desolder the old battery when you get the chance and clean any residue that has got onto the board with a dilute vinegar solution - this will neutralise the alkali.
Rinse and dry thoroughly.

#34 atait

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 08:21 PM

You do need to get the battery changed asap if it is leaking - it can totally kill these boards...
The bloke selling them on Ebay is highly recommended by me! ;)

Desolder the old battery when you get the chance and clean any residue that has got onto the board with a dilute vinegar solution - this will neutralise the alkali.
Rinse and dry thoroughly.



Cheers for that. I will speak to you via ebay now - lol !!!

#35 atait

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 08:26 PM

The cancel button could be due to the lamp/ microswitch holder having been pushed out of the back of the button by overenthusiastic play - quite common and easy to check.
Mind you the last time I had an inoperative cancel button it was due to a loose wire at the i/o board - much more difficult to trace!

If the switch holder is still firmly in place then the next thing to do is to swap one of the microswitches you know to be working.



Took out the reels this morning - again very easy, the Microswitch had fallen straight into the machine - replaced it and - voila working - nice and simple.

Anyway, when I replaced the reels (after cleaning), I thought I had made a major boo boo, I had !!!, I had managed to put the middle reel back on without catching all the pins - major alarms were sounding with an error code. Eventually managed to get it all back together and working nicely.

#36 stu55554

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 08:37 PM

glad you got it working good machine and one of the top downloaded on this site :)
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#37 ady

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 08:44 PM

glad you got it working good machine and one of the top downloaded on this site :)



No it isn't thats an error....

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atait PMed you mate.

#38 atait

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 09:16 PM

No it isn't thats an error....

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atait PMed you mate.



Thanks Ady - replied,

And here was me all chuffed because my machine was popular :bigeyes21:

#39 atait

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 09:20 PM

Its not leaking onto the board as I can see, but I wiped some residue of off the actual battery.

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#40 atait

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Posted 07 May 2008 - 09:30 PM

Ok I think I have figured out its am M1a board - am I right ?

Is there such a thing as a manual for it ?

Also, its not a great pic, but what is the rheostat switch for that pokes out the back of the add on card (houses the noels chips). Its near the middle of the pic sort of buried under a wire.

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