20 replies to this topic

[puffernutter]

Hello All,

I have just been given a Crazy Fruits machine. I knew it was faulty when I was given it, but if any of you more experience fruit machine owners could point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.

On power on I get "Checking Sound Card", then "Checking ROM", then it clicks at roughly 1 second intervals. It does nothing else. I've had a quick look inside and the mother board power supply LEDS are all lit up, the LEDs on the reels are lit, but the red reset light flashes in sympathy with the "clicks".

Any suggestions, where should I start.

I know that this machine hasn't been used for quite a while. Is there a "master reset" anywhere that I can use?

Cheers

Peter
P.S. My main hobby is miniature trains, see lmandwr redirect

[stanmarsh14]

Think you are best off waiting for aamusements to call by, or try the same post @ The Mecca, as they tend to me more hands on with machine repairs: The MPU Mecca

One thing I would say is to check on ANY machine, is the back up battery. They are often marked green or blue, and often have Varta stamped on them. They also normally have 3 pins, 1 live, 2 neg contacts. Make sure there is no bulging or leakage. If you find any of these two issues, cut the batt out, clean / repair any resulting damage, and fly wire (Or use the Mecca's preferred coin cell mod) a triple AA / AAA batt holder and fit 3 pre-charged Ni/Mh NOT NiCad batts.

[fruitman69]

Check the program card is in fully,no bent pins etc and that the note accepter if fitted is not touching the main board.

[lincs1]

the fault is the power supply unit, replace the unit and everything will be super fantastic.

its deffo the power supply thats naff. its a common fault with early bell fruit machines such as yours



lincs1

[todd1970]

Sounds like the loom cable of reel 3 opto has came loose from the main pxu board causing a dry solder in the battery terminal..and thus an over-heat of the parallel coin mech opto.

[lincs1]

Sounds like the loom cable of reel 3 opto has came loose from the main pxu board causing a dry solder in the battery terminal..and thus an over-heat of the parallel coin mech opto.

trust me todd its the psu that's fecked as soon as he said about the click i knew straight away as its a common fault with naff psu's



linvs1

[todd1970]

Your probably absolutley correct Lincs..as i havent got a f***kin clue what im talking about.

But sounded quite impressive dont ya think? :tongue:

[lincs1]

Your probably absolutley correct Lincs..as i havent got a f***kin clue what im talking about.

But sounded quite impressive dont ya think? :tongue:

pmsl yes m8 u wa very impressive but can u convince me? lol

[puffernutter]

pmsl yes m8 u wa very impressive but can u convince me? lol

Another numpty question! Where do I find the program card? Looking at the motherboard I have two connectors, to the right is the sound card, the left connector is empty. Am I missing a key part?

Cheers

Peter

[lincs1]

if i'm not mistaken the machine only has 1 card with onboard sound and programme proms.

the other slot is just an expansion slot




lincs1

[aaamusements]

the fault is the power supply unit, replace the unit and everything will be super fantastic.

its deffo the power supply thats naff. its a common fault with early bell fruit machines such as yours



lincs1

Absolutely agree, although I would add that there is every probability that if you take out the board from the PSU and re-flow any dry solder joints, it could very well be fine.
Replace any electrolytic capacitors too while you are at it.

Stanmarsh makes a very good point about the battery on the MPU though; even if it has not caused the problem it is as well to remove it/ change it asap as it will most likely leak sooner or later. ESPECIALLY if it is a BLUE nicad!

[puffernutter]

All,
Thanks for the great advice. When I'm back home next weekend I'll whip the supply out and measure the output voltages.

If I do have problems with it and can't fix it, is there a source of secondhand supplies?

Cheers

Peter

[aaamusements]

All,
Thanks for the great advice. When I'm back home next weekend I'll whip the supply out and measure the output voltages.

If I do have problems with it and can't fix it, is there a source of secondhand supplies?

Cheers

Peter

Voltage is not always a perfect indication of the health of a power supply, as it will not effectively "load test" it.
I have had PSU's before now that have shown acceptable voltages but still been duff.

If you want spares then you can always ask on here, otherwise their is always Feebay!

[skabaz]

yeah i back up whateveryone has said but you may also have an mpu thats stuck in reset.

best thing to do first is to check the sound/program card and make sure there are no bent pins and its in correctly.
then the power supply and then the mpu(where the program card plugs into)


it will be one of them.

baz

[puffernutter]

yeah i back up whateveryone has said but you may also have an mpu thats stuck in reset.

best thing to do first is to check the sound/program card and make sure there are no bent pins and its in correctly.
then the power supply and then the mpu(where the program card plugs into)


it will be one of them.

baz

Hello, sorry this thread has gone a little cold, but I have been away on business a lot. I finally got the PSU out and checked each of the voltages on load. They were all at what I expected.

I have looked at the program card and there are no bent pins and it sits in snugly.

Now if I turn it on, there is no sound at all and the red "reset" LED just flashes. If I hold the red button in it goes steady for as long as I hold it in.

It doesn't seem to want to boot - am I looking at a new processor card?

Cheers

Peter

[aaamusements]

Peter, did you get round to checking the battery and the area around it for leakage/damage?
It's common enough!

[puffernutter]

Peter, did you get round to checking the battery and the area around it for leakage/damage?
It's common enough!

Yes, nothing obvious though. Is it worth replacing it anyway? Is it widely available?

Cheers

Peter

[aaamusements]

I wouldn't bother unless it shows signs of leakage, or if it is a blue (nicad) one.
Bit stumped on this fault now, we were all sure it was the PSU!

Have you checked for dry joints anyway, I had one recently that metered ok but was faulty due to dry joints on the PSU board...
Look very carefully!

[puffernutter]

I had the PSU sitting on the bench with the cover off. I had a load for each of the voltages (5v, 12v, 13.5v, 24v & 48v) nothing too heavy, but enough for each pin to take current. I monitored the voltage on each pin with each load. I was initially concerned about 13.44v, but when I looked at the details on the outside of the PSU, they were supposed to be 13.5v anyway.

This seems to have gone downhill since I first turned it on. Initially I had a brief message on the green display and a noise. That no longer happens. Then I had a "click" in time to the reset light flashing and that no longer happens. Now all I get is the reset light flashing!

I'm sure that the power supply is OK, so all I'm left with is the mother board or the programme board.

Cheers

Peter
(off to bed!)

[aaamusements]

I'm sure that the power supply is OK, so all I'm left with is the mother board or the programme board.

Looks like it then.