37 replies to this topic

[JamesRay]

I seem to recognise that Ebay account.

My money is on the reply being something similar to....

PC is knackered but I can sell you a new one for £xxx if I can keep your old one.

Or maybe, just maybe after now that I've posted this, you might be treated fairly.

I really hope so, but I doubt it.

 

So far all I have been getting from him is straight talk (IE, send it over and ill have a look at it). If he does pull a 180 and start saying i can trade it then honestly it wont be too much of a difference from most computer repair places i have used.

 

As for the computer, i read online that the signs I'm getting (HDD light on, No power light. reacting to power and reset buttons but no display or buzzer noises) can be a sign of PSU failure on normal computers, so I tried switching out the PSU to see if that would help. I actually tried 3 different PSU's in total (One of which definitely works) but unfortunately all of them acted the same, which normally shows that its the motherboard that is dead. you can get POST analyzers to check that but to quote somebody from an old thread i found, "The downside to a POST analyzer, of course, is that if the problem necessitates using one, the device will virtually always just confirm to you that the mainboard will need to be replaced".

 

With that in mind, at the end of the day there isn't much i can personally do with the computer anymore i don't think what with all the protections in place when it comes to changing parts (from what i understand from looking through this forums old topics). Maybe if i knew the exact settings i would need for the motherboard i could buy an replacement one such as this one here  and set it up for the console, but with me never having seen one working and without another machine to get those motherboard settings from, the outlook is begging to look pretty bleak. The last thing i want to do is trash it even more if that's even possible at this point.

 

Ill message the seller now and tell him what I've found and see if i can get a price for a new motherboard for example as well as how much i would get as a trade-in. at least that way he wont hold all the cards when he does turn around and says its smeged. If I'm going to buy a new one of him anyway then at least its a bit of a discount. :-D

 

Ill let you know how it goes. Maybe he's been visited by the ghost of tech support past since you last heard of him!

[fruitnutter]

Dunno if it's been said, but plug in an mpu alpha to the mpu5 and boot. That will tell you your issue.

It won't, the mpu5 isn't the problem.

[fruitnutter]

Hi Fruitnutter.

 

Cheers for all the info! From what you've said it definitely sounds like more than a "the machine was dropped" problem!

 

Unfortunately i do not know anybody who has a fruit machine, let alone the same make and model, so i guess ill have to take a stab at buying a new one.

 

Considering the internal components are all generic parts could i just buy new motherboards and graphics cards to see if that would help since it would come out a fair bit cheaper than buying a new PC or are there custom settings on them i could not replicate? If the HDD is indeed working theoretically i could just transfer it to the new component machine?

 

As for signs i really wish i could give you more, but the machine is not giving any kind of faults whatsoever other than the self test displays on the monitors.

 

Ill have to look into that eBay link. Going to take a bit of saving with this corona-crud going around as I'm out of work so it will likely be a week or two before i can do anything unfortunately, but if i do come to purchasing a new PC i noticed the seller says you will receive a random model from their stock, so does it overly matter whether the PC is a mk 4,5 or 6?

 

Once again thanks so much for all of the information! hopefully my next comment here will be about my newly working fruit machine. :-D

 

Cheers,

James

You need a barcrest specific motherboard since the bios chip has proprietary Barcrest code. Any other motherboard (even exact same model) won't work.

 

You could transfer the hard drive to a working machine, but make sure to swap the program card as well, since that contains PIC chip information.

[JamesRay]

You need a barcrest specific motherboard since the bios chip has proprietary Barcrest code. Any other motherboard (even exact same model) won't work.

 

You could transfer the hard drive to a working machine, but make sure to swap the program card as well, since that contains PIC chip information.

Its currently with the guy from eBay and he told me it would be £55 if it is indeed the motherboard. guess he must have some spares laying around. Either that or he's lying out his [donkey].

 

Where will i find the program card if it does come to that, mind? Are you just meaning the key for the MPU or is there another chip in the PC i would need to find?

 

In the end, if this guy isn't able to do anything with it I'll probably just end up getting a refurbished PC off him anyway, and other than finding out how much the machines been used (which likely wouldn't even be very accurate) i don't actually need the old HDD. not that it wouldn't come in handy for spares of course.

 

The computer just got delivered to him this morning so at least on the upside i will know whether the old computer is going to be fixed or if I'm going to be cashing it in as a discount coupon against a new one.

[JamesRay]

Great news (Hopefully)!

 

The guy has gotten back to me and said it was indeed the motherboard as i had thought. Said he had replaced it and that it would be £65 including postage. as such i sent him over the remaining cash (outside of what i had paid him through ebay) and as such he is sending it back to me.

 

Hopefully it will indeed be fixed. Ill update here again once i have it back and hopefully working.

 

As for the MPU hopefully if i connect the working pc up to it it will stop the alarm. then again who knows. maybe its a completely different issue...

 

On a side note, one thing i forgot to mention as i figured it wasn't exactly something you guys would be able to help much with is that while removing the computer the upper door fell out, ripping its fixings from the wood. I'm planning on putting coach bolts through the remaining would after filling it to hold it on again (as the middle nut is still intact) but it does mean that if i ever end up posting a video or image of it on here the top door is going to be completely removed (and the monitor sat loosely in the compartment). Again luckily its something i have an idea how to fix since its only woodworking but i figured it might be interesting to note. suppose the lesson there is not to remove the bolts while the door isn't completely open or at least supported (not that thats a lesson any sane person would probably need).

[fruitnutter]

Good stuff James, hopefuly the machine will be working once you reassemble the PC!

 

I would imagine the alarm will be fixed with the inclusion of a working motherboard. Let us know if it is not

[JamesRay]

So, Ive got some good news and some bad news.

 

The good news is, the seller has replaced the motherboard and now the PC seems fine. It boots up and comes on, and when you open the door it goes to the service menu! It has also stopped the alarm.

 

The bad news is, now it isn't reacting to the touchscreen. The touchscreen is connected via USB and via the VGA cable so it is definitely connected to the PC, yet like i said the PC isn't detecting any input from it.

 

Is there some kind of configuration i need to do to get it working again? can i test the monitor on another PC to check if it works properly or is it not a plug-and-play type thing?

 

At least on the upside the machine isn't screaming at me now. 

[chasnbons]

Try opening door, hold down start button and follow on screen instructions to recalibrate the touchscreen

[JamesRay]

So theres some more good news and some bad news.

 

Try opening door, hold down start button and follow on screen instructions to recalibrate the touchscreen

 

I tried that start button but the machine just didn't react to it. i had messaged the repair guy to and he gave me a call and talked me through it. got me to try the monitor in different ports (turn it on. test the monitor. if it doesnt work turn the machine off and try another USB port until it does work. luckily it only took about 3 attempts). He said about trying start too but once again to no avail.

 

I did find out the reason the start button wasn't working. I will say you might want to kick me off the forum for this...

 

I hadnt pushed it in fully. meaning when i pressed the button on the top it never actually pressed the switch inside as it just fell out... 

 

Yeah, i know... laugh all you want!

 

Anyway. moral of the story is THE MACHINE IS WORKING AGAIN!

 

Had a quick go on it and checked it over, and other than a few dodgy LED's its working A Okay!

 

Except, that is, for the fact the note validator isn't reacting in any way shape or form... It whirrs up when you turn on the machine but outside of that initial whirring it does nothing at all. wont accept notes whether it is in the service menu on validator test or if it is in normal play.

 

I've pulled it out to look it over and its an NV9 note validator. Its all connected up properly with no parts disconnected that i can see but like i said, outside of the whirring proving it has power i cannot get it doing anything.

 

Any ideas as to what my issue might be there? After that start button fiasco i think i've bugged the repairman enough at this point unless he wants another good chuckle. :-P

[fruitnutter]

You need to link to the validator to the machine I think... Go into the service menu and look for something like "BNV Validator", "Note Validator Setup", "Link Peripherals" or something like that. (I've not worked on an e-rio for time so can't remember the exact wording). Enter the code from the note validator into the machine, it'll be a six digit code, and if there isn't one on the validator itself then use 123456 as that will probably be correct.

 

You are quite right when you say that the whirring indicates that the validator has power, and means nothing other than that at this stage.

It might be under "Serial Device Setup" now I think about it.

[JamesRay]

You need to link to the validator to the machine I think... Go into the service menu and look for something like "BNV Validator", "Note Validator Setup", "Link Peripherals" or something like that. (I've not worked on an e-rio for time so can't remember the exact wording). Enter the code from the note validator into the machine, it'll be a six digit code, and if there isn't one on the validator itself then use 123456 as that will probably be correct.

 

You are quite right when you say that the whirring indicates that the validator has power, and means nothing other than that at this stage.

It might be under "Serial Device Setup" now I think about it.

Hi Fruitnutter.

 

I had a poke around but i couldn't find that setting anywhere in any of the menus. Ended up just going over the whole machine and it turned out the acceptor was set to special mode (Dips 1 and 2 on, 3 and 4 off) where it needed to be on S.S.P Mode (Dips 1, 2 and 4 on, Dip 3 off). Also went over and checked the connectors. after that it started playing up saying it was jammed so i loosened the screw holding the main central assembly bit inside of the validator (the one with the presser foot in) and that seems to have done the trick.

 

The run down is. The machine is now fully functional again! :-D

 

Thank you all so much for the tips and advice! been a real help here!

 

Now i will just have to get the validator sent off to get its dataset updated as it doesnt like modern notes, but other than that, a job well done. :-D

[JamesRay]

To summaries this post, for anybody trying to check their own machines.

 

The symptoms were that: The alarm on the machine would sound when it was turned out ("Hey, Check me out!") and nothing would be displayed on the monitors. The machine would also not boot into BIOS (pressing F12 on a USB keyboard).

 

Further checks found that the status LEDs on the PC i found that the HDD light flickered while the power LED would never come on. The power and reset switches both made the machine turn on and off (something i tested by switching the connectors from the HDD light and rocker switch on the PC around to other connections on the motherboard).

 

This showed (in my case at least) that it was a faulty motherboard. I sent the machine off to get it repaired and when i got it back it worked fine.

 

The next issue was that the touchscreen wouldn't react with the computer. this was fixed by switching the USB around between different ports (turn off the machine. switch the USB to another port. boot it back up and test. repeat until the monitor worked).

 

Finally the note validator would not react to notes. after dismantling it and rebuilding it, i checked over some cables and reseated them, and found out that the validator was set to special mode when it should have been on SSP mode (Smiley Secure Protocol). 

 

Once again, a big thanks to all you guys on this site for your advice! Hopefully this machine will have many years left on it!

[JamesRay]

Okay, nope, reopened. apparently the note acceptor is obsolete and cannot be updated to the new polymer notes.

 

I can buy a DA3 programming thingy which will apparently according to the manual be able to update it, but otherwise ill apparently need to buy a new unit.

 

Any ideas?

[fruitsnappa]

If your note acceptor has dip switches it's not updatable to new £20 note. It needs to be USB type (one with button instead of switches)

[JamesRay]

If your note acceptor has dip switches it's not updatable to new £20 note. It needs to be USB type (one with button instead of switches)

 

darnit. dont suppose you know where i can get one? cant see any coming up on ebay.

[JamesRay]

I've been told to avoid green labeled ones as well as dip switch ones.are the red labeled ones okay still or am i going to have to get one direct from innovative?

[fruitnutter]

You just need NV9USB, these will all work in your machine regardless of label and dip switches mate.

 

And fab that the rest of the machine is working properly, well done! I think you did the hard work yourself, and to be honest it's the best way to learn! Get in there and go for it, which is exactly what you've done!

By the way, NV9 can be bought here, £150. https://www.ebay.co....vUAAOSwU~FbvKBe

[JamesRay]

You just need NV9USB, these will all work in your machine regardless of label and dip switches mate.

 

And fab that the rest of the machine is working properly, well done! I think you did the hard work yourself, and to be honest it's the best way to learn! Get in there and go for it, which is exactly what you've done!

By the way, NV9 can be bought here, £150. https://www.ebay.co....vUAAOSwU~FbvKBe

Ah,brilliant! Cheers mate.

 

I think the thing with the colors and dips is that only the greens can still be updated apparently, but i suppose as long as they will take the new notes now it shouldn't matter anyway!

 

Hopefully this machine won't be my last, and honestly without the help of you guys here i think i'd still be poking it with a stick and waiting for a miracle. :-D

 

Cheers,

James