Thanks Niv
I've rang around all of the local repair/hire companys and they dont have any Scorpion 2 boards about, as the machine is so old (I turn around and look at the machine and ponder, sould I just sell it in my local antiques store???)
Ive looked at the MPU board and have found some track damage under the battery, where it had leaked. (Battery acid corodes the tracks) I've repaired the track damage, tightend the pins on both the processors, reflowed the solder joints on the eproms and connectors, reflowed the power supply, removed the test switch and cleaned the pins on the eprom.
I now have the Reset LED staying on but it pulses off every 1 second, I have been advised that it is probibly another track problem, but I have bridged every track that looks "worse for ware".
The board gets its Logic 5V from a voltage regelator on the 12V rail, but this gets very hot, and none of the components warm up, does this sugest that there may be a problem with the regelator???
Does anybody have any advise they can give to me??
IF YOU HAVE A FAULTY SCORPION 2 BOARD, PLEASE READ THESE TIPS:
Just a note if anybody is having problems with a scorpion 2 board in the future, the Promcard and Expansion socket are in parellel, so you can plug the game card in any socket, try using the expansion socket for the game card.
The processor sockets have a tendency to bow in the middle causing the pins to not touch the processor, simply remove the processor and pull each pin out slightly with a VERY SMALL screwdriver, replace the procesor.
Check the battery voltage, if the battery is flat, the game wont load, if the battery is at the end of its life, replace it with a new one from maplins.
If your battery has leaked, Wash the pcb with a mixture of vinegar and water (50/50) to neutralize the corrosion and scrub with a toothbrush. Rinse the washed board with clean water and then rinse the board with 99% pure alcohol. This will disolve and wash away the water. Repeat this step. The alcohol will evaporate fairly quickly.
Repair any track or componect damage, NOTE the board is only dual sided, so you dont have to worry about track layers within the board.
If you have access to a ociliscope, check to see if the ocilator is ocilating, it has been know for these to fail..
Check the Pink and Red wires inside the power supply, these sometimes get very hot and cause the connectior to melt and change colour, if it has, then either solder the wires directly onto the board or replace the connector, this was a known design fault.
Check the fuses, they get very hot and often melt inside or cause a dry joint, if they have melted, replace them with a fuse holder that has a good current rating.
The board only needs 12V to run as the board gets its 5V from the 12V Rail, when testing the board, the only things that can be left disconnected are the alphanumeric display and the lights, but the board needs everything else, this then tests to see if there is a short in the lights or the display, this will also cause the board not to power up.
Mayby there should be a Repair Tips Forum with topics for each machine for tips on repairing the boards/machines
Just moderate the new topics to keep the forum tidy and to make sure each user posts in the right topic. I'd be willing to do it! as I think it will be invaluable infomation for each user.
Thanks for reading
Kind Regards
Dave